Smoky eyes are gorgeous on women of any age and can be overwhelming to replicate! I watched one YouTuber use 50 products on a makeover including the eyes. Yikes! In this video, I decided to make it as simple as “1-2-3” by using 3 main products on the eyes, and showing how to blend just right so that it looks soft, smudgy, and (dare I say it) sexy.
Today’s model is my friend, Shelby, and together we are creating a beautiful, simple, step-by-step smoky eye. Let’s go!
Base Color to Build Density
The trick with a smoky eye or any complex makeup, is to layer or stack colors for added density. Because of this, I am using two cream eyeshadows. I love them. They are easy to use, stay on all day, and blend like a dream. I start with a color called Toffee and use a circular motion with a soft blender brush to evenly distribute the product. Be sure to get the darkest shadow next to the lashline both top and bottom, and in the crease. This is a wonderful technique for your regular daytime look as well, because after applying this one shade, you can simply toss on mascara and lipstick and head out the door.
A Note on a Common Question
Should you apply foundation and/or concealer to the eyelid before eye shadow (both cream and powder)? For me, this all depends on whether you have oily or discolored lids. People with oily eyelids should use an eye base that helps control the oil so the shadow doesn’t crease or rub off. If you don’t have oily lids, I recommend putting some type of moisturizer on first, then foundation or concealer.
If you are like me and have discoloration on your eyelids, this can really help to even out the color pre-eyeshadow. That being said, for cream shadows, they hold up better when applied to skin as opposed to products like foundation, so do what works for you.
Smudge a Darker Shade for Depth
To get the smoky feel, take a color two to three shades darker in the same color family (I am using Cocoa Noir) and run it next to your eyeline on the top and only on the bottom if your eyes can handle it. Then add it to the outer edge of the eye and about half the crease area. Taking your blending brush, blend it into a seamless gradient between the two colors; it should look natural and soft. Getting this part right without it being overdone is the challenging part, and one that even professionals mess up on! (Speaking from experience…)
Eyeliner and Waterline Pencil
On Shelby, I used a dark brown water repellant eyeliner pencil called Wood. I placed it between the top and bottom lashes, being sure to smudge it next to the eye so it never has a ‘lined’ look. After that, I placed it in the top waterline but not the bottom. Some of you can use it in the bottom waterline, but it all depends on your eye shape. You can use very dramatic eyeliner shades as long as you know how to smudge them so they don’t take over your eye.
The blending and smudging brush I used throughout the process is a soft, easy to clean synthetic brush that has multiple uses. You don’t need 50 brushes, you only need maybe 5 to do your whole makeup. I say this as I look at the 50 makeup brushes in my makeup kit!
The Rest of the Face: Keep It Chill
As a rule of thumb, when the focus is on one part of the face; be it the eyes, lips, or cheeks, be careful not to have anything else compete with those choices. For example, since Shelby’s eyes are the main event, I used warm peach tones for her blush and lips. This way, she has the polished look we all want, while still having amazing eye makeup.
Thoughts on Strategy
I worked in live television (CNN, FOX, MSNBC) for many years, which helped me hone the skill of speed. When a female on-camera talent would sit in my chair I might have 20 minutes or 5 before her spot went live, so I needed to work fast and have my proverbial ducks-in-a-row. Because of this, I recommend picking your colors before you start. Maybe you will have a rosy lip and blush shade, or maybe a sheer grape lip gloss and plum blush with a smoky eye. Normally, I decide on the lips first, then I work out what I’m putting on the eyes. This helps with color coordination and speed of application.
Finished Look
On Shelby, I popped in a few curls and threw on a copper colored jacket, and she looked gorgeous. She didn’t have plans that night but decided to make some with her boyfriend who came to the shoot to watch. Why waste a great smoky eye?
(Use the code THEBEAUTYSHAMAN for 10% off at PrimePrometics.)
Your Thoughts:
In any case, what do you think of this makeup look? Do you think you can do a three-product smoky eye? Please comment below. I love hearing from you.
